In Milan, Objects of Common Interest and Marsèll Team Up on an Exhibition That Uses Materials as Spatial Interventions

When the Italian boutique leather brand Marsèll opened its showroom a year and a half ago on Via Spiga, Milan's luxury shopping street, it was an exercise in restraint — similar to the shoes and bags on offer, the interior, by Berlin's Lotto Studio, took a minimal approach to form, with almost all the emphasis on the interplay of high-end natural materials like glass, stone, stainless steel, and walnut. That elegant spareness has made it not only the perfect visual expression of the brand, but also the perfect neutral backdrop against which to stage designer interventions during the Milan furniture fair. Last year Marsèll welcomed Gonzalez Haase AAS into the space, and this year, Objects of Common Interest — the New York– and Athens–based practice of Eleni Petaloti and Leonidas Trampoukis — did the honors, with a two-floor installation called Adaptive Ground that "explores the relationship between space and material."
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A Swedish Artist Known for Her Vibrant Florals and Seductive Line Drawings is a Perfect Match for Marimekko

Marimekko has long been a go-to for those seeking joyful bursts of color and pattern in their clothing and home décor, from the oft-searched 1980s-era Dan River Tulip bedding to the ever-stylish (and, frankly, ahead of its time) gender-neutral shirting of the 1953 Jokapoika. Over the last few years, the Finnish design brand has expanded that vision with its Marimekko Artist Series, a collaborative opportunity “to provide artists with a canvas — in the shape of Marimekko products — to present their work,” as Marimekko’s creative director Rebekka Bay puts it. The series makes artwork accessible to a broader public while paying homage to an era when Marimekko’s founder Armi Ratia would invite artists and other creatives to design prints, Bay adds. The theme of this year’s series, the Anatomy of a Flower, was a perfect fit for Petra Börner, a Swedish artist who lives in London. Börner’s work often nods to floral subjects and motifs, cyclical growth and constant transformation, and this beautifully translates into a capsule collection for the Finnish brand.
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Armando Cabral Turns the Cult-Famous USM Shelving Into a Collection Steeped In West African Symbolism

Getting creative with modular furniture can require a certain amount of inventiveness; there are only so many ways to organize a rigid set of components, as in the Swiss company USM’s signature Haller storage. So to produce something never before seen from such a precise framework — metal rods, ball-shaped connectors, and a system of wildly colorful milled steel panels — a designer really needs to think outside the, well, box. “Restraint sometimes allows you to think further in order to arrive at something unexpected,” says Armando Cabral, who has entwined the expressive elements of his West African heritage with strict Swiss production parameters in a new collaborative collection with USM.
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This Milanese Brand — and Its Newest Collection, Just Launched in Milan — Brings the Maximalist Trend to Your Table

We noticed a funny little recurring motif at this week's Milan fair: At many of the gatherings we attended, we were served wine and/or water from the kind of frilly, classical goblets you might expect to find at a fancy summer garden party in Tuscany rather than in the middle of a big city known for its Modernist design. But maximalism has been on the rise in our world for awhile now, and the proof can be seen not just in our design-week drinkware but in the rise of brands like Sophie Lou Jacobsen, Gohar World, Levant, and the Milanese fashion and housewares label La DoubleJ, for whom frilly goblets are an enduring staple. La DoubleJ's founder J.J. Martin is known for her love of pattern-mixing, florals, vibrant colors, and all things old-school Italian, and the label's latest tabletop collection, Solar, embodies all those tendencies.
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A Former Kenzo Design Director Finds Creative Freedom in a Pivot to Ceramics

When you’ve spent seven years as design director for a major Parisian fashion brand — in this case, Kenzo, the luxury house founded in 1970 by Japanese designer Kenzo Takada — where do you go from there? In Ben Mazey's case, the answer was: move back to the Antipodes, set up a ceramics studio, and fall in love with the creative process all over again. The New Zealand–born Mazey was on vacation in Australia when the pandemic hit; he took the opportunity to put down roots and began exploring clay as a material with total freedom. Out of this self-directed sabbatical came a highly expressive world of colorfully glazed pieces, and a unique visual language that’s not easy to define, in the best possible way.
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Sunnei and cc-tapis Just Dropped the Ultimate Fashion x Design Collab, Where Carpets Become Clothing and Vice Versa

In addition to their playfully chic sartorial offerings, Sunnei has been on our radar for years thanks to their periodic overlaps with the design world, from a thoughtful ongoing object collection to the collaboration they presented during Salone in 2022 with our friends at Bloc Studios. And yet I was still surprised and delighted when, after I emailed the brand's PR team asking for a press kit for the brand's FW24 fashion show, it turned out the striking striped knitwear pieces that I'd immediately been drawn to were actually a collaboration with one of our other favorite Milanese brands, rug-maker cc-tapis.
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Meet the NYC Art Collective Who Brought Their Explorations of “Vaguely Asian” Identities to Milan

Comprising four New York City–based artists, the collective CFGNY employs an unruly creative output to assert their own lived experience of being what they call “vaguely Asian” in America. The group recently staged an exhibition called Emporium during last month’s Milan furniture fair — presented by Italian leather brand Marséll and curated by PIN-UP magazine’s Felix Burrichter — that employs cardboard, porcelain, and leather to further complicate this idea of a blurry Asian-ness. The sculptures created with Marséll especially for the show, like leather-wrapped replicas of architectural details from Milan’s Chinatown, elucidate contact points between cultures and identity groups.
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Week of October 3, 2022

A weekly Saturday recap to share with you our favorite links, discoveries, exhibitions, and more from the past seven days. This week: a store interior inspired by Mono-Ha, furniture inspired by hand-shaped surfboards (above), and a fashion collection — from Jonathan Anderson at Loewe — inspired in part by anthuriums, and how they resemble an "object of design."
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In Wang & Söderstrom’s First Shop Interior, Color Reigns and 3D-Printed Blobs Act as “Jewelry” For the Space

A central player in the explosive rise of Denmark’s boutique fashion scene, Stine Goya's clothes have become more directional in recent seasons, as has its visual identity. Creative duo Wang & Söderström were recently brought on to help translate that new energy into the label’s physical spaces, with two stores whose color-blocked interiors and 3D printed accents echo the brand's palette — and add a dose of serious fun.
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Shane Gabier ceramics

A New York Fashion Designer Reinvents Himself With Clay

You may know Shane Gabier as the designer behind the fashion label Creatures of the Wind, where, since 2008, he has been churning out sharply tailored avant-garde collections for New York Fashion Week and earning accolades like an LVMH prize shortlist. But if you’ve kept up with his work more recently, you would know that fashion isn’t Gabier's only talent — he’s also a budding ceramicist.
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Meet the Chair Equivalent of Freezing Your Issey Miyake Pants in Resin

It was an interest in fashion, coupled with a job in retail, that first sparked Brooklyn designer Michal Cihlar’s fascination with furniture. At the time, he was studying for a degree in architecture at NYU, but he wasn’t finding satisfaction with the drawn-out process required to realize buildings. Instead, it was a part-time job at the cult fashion shop Opening Ceremony that opened his eyes to more creative possibilities. With carpentry skills gleaned from a sculpture course and access to deadstock fabric, Cihlar started making playfully bulbous pieces that nod to the way textiles move and bounce on the body.
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Anastasia Komar’s New Leather Goods Nod to Everything from Karl Springer to Superstudio

The wavy line is everywhere. It's in the puddle-shaped mirrors that have become ubiquitous on Instagram; it's in the amoeba-shaped tables that have popped up in millennial interiors. Remember the scalloped trim on that Collectible booth last spring? (Related: Remember fairs?) And yet we're still seeing novel applications of a trope that of course dates way beyond even midcentury touchstones like Jean Royère and Karl Springer. The latest is on a series of crossbody bags, totes, and clutches by the Moscow-born, New York–based multi-disciplinarian Anastasia Komar, who designs under the studio name Forms.
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