In Paris, Sophie Buhai Blurs the Line Between Jewelry and Object

Founded in 1972, Paris’s Galerie Anne-Sophie Duval quickly rose to prominence when Duval asked a young Karl Lagerfeld, then creative director at Chloe, to design her booth at La Biennale Paris. (Trying to think of this in today’s New York terms, and it’s something like Jacqueline Sullivan Gallery asking Jonathan Anderson to design their booth at Salon Art & Design?) Lagerfeld’s somewhat shocking scenographic context — floors tiled in black industrial rubber; an illuminated glass and stainless-steel stage; and mirrored or lacquered emerald green walls backdropping modernist accessories and furniture by the likes of Pierre Chareau — put the Deco-focused gallery on the map. Now, more than 50 years later, the gallery has reopened after a yearlong renovation by the French architect Sylvain Dubuisson, under the careful eye of Duval’s daughter and current director of the gallery, Julie Blum. To inaugurate the new space, the gallery has once again joined forces with a fashion person known for their exquisite taste and flair for the dramatic.

On view until June 30 is Jewelry Objects, an exhibition of 19 unique or limited-edition pieces by Sophie Buhai created on the occasion of Buhai’s studio’s 10th anniversary. Highlights include a bud vase coated in jet-black urushi lacquer and studded with carnelian cabochons; a surrealist magnifying glass; a sterling silver toothpick case topped with a tiny dangling jade; a cigarette holder with a garnet teardrop; a tasseled minaudière; and a curved letter opener. The focus here is more on object than jewelry, but you won’t find us quibbling: It’s an area of Buhai’s work that’s grown only more interesting in the last few years. Not only that, the show nimbly explores the adornment of objects — something we could all use a bit more of right now.