At this point, simplicity can seem like a tired mantra or an admonishment, an extra layer of guilt heaped over our misdirections. Isn’t it enough that our cluttered thoughts keep us up at night? Do we have to feel bad about it, too? So it’s especially heartening that for Seattle-based stylist Ashley Helvey, simplicity is something else entirely: a look so easy that it serves as encouragement. “A lot of the imagery I’m inspired by online is just a piece of fabric or a cinderblock,” says Helvey, who is editorial creative director for Totokaelo, overseeing everything from photo shoots to social media. “They are really simple things that you could actually execute. Having a simple aesthetic is actually pretty tangible.”
This month, Helvey — who is also behind the inspiration blog Hunter Gathererer — made the leap from images to physical forms, translating the thoughtful arrangements that have been catching her eye online into real life, and with accompanying instructions. Her #IRL show at Seattle art space Love City Love, which opened March 27, is a reminder “that anyone can have access to the beauty they see in the world,” says Helvey, who transitioned from expressive textile work into plaster casting and sculpture about a year ago. If making and seeing are intimately connected, why shouldn’t the ease of looking at imagery on blogs and Tumblrs flow into an ease with creating content? “People seem to have become more engrossed in collecting images online than making them. I hope my work inspires people to start making again; an image can be as simple as a plastic bag tacked on a wall.”
Even more important than the objects themselves, though, is how they are arranged in the world, and the sensitivity to whatever it is that gives a grouping of objects vitality. “I suppose what surprises me most sometimes is the unintentional arrangement of objects in tchotchke shops, Asian markets or dollar stores, or the way people group their shampoo bottles or medicine cabinets,” Helvey says. She points to Leonard Koren’s book Arranging Things: A Rhetoric of Object Placement, with illustrations by Nathalie du Pasquier, as an inspiration: “I think it’s the accessibly of those arrangements that resonate so deeply within me — we all have access to a wooden clothespin, an apple, a rock and a plastic cup.”
In other words, Helvey is less concerned with the preciousness of objects than with their relationships to one another and to us, and she finds the most beauty in function. “I’d rather have a beautiful towel that I dry my body with everyday than an expensive chair. Maybe if I sat in that chair everyday I would come to appreciate it, but I use a towel more often.” After all, maybe simplicity isn’t about fussiness or a totally staged life — “that’s so frustrating; I’m so over it,” Helvey says — but about learning not to get too attached. “I don’t think I’ve kept many things for more than a year. We all change so much, and I’m constantly liking new things and letting go.”
Su Wu is an arts critic and the proprietor of the blog I’m Revolting.
Helvey’s living room, with a wood-frame couch her boyfriend built around a child’s Ikea mattress and an apricot silk pillow by Electric Feathers from Totokaelo. Of the apartment, she says: “We instantly fell in love with the French windows and fireplace. What really sold us, though, was the location. It makes such a huge difference to be near a great supermarket and have the luxury of walking to work.”
A copper Frame Light by Iacoli & McAllister, who Helvey has collaborated with on projects: “It’s nice to have friends in design and even better when you can do trades!”
A Ben Fiess ceramic piece (sans rubber band), a gift from Caitlin Emeritz of metrode.
Books on Helvey’s coffee table, including Sonomama by photographer Taishi Hiroawa and stylist Kimie Hata: “It’s one of the most beautifully understated fashion books I’ve ever seen. [They] basically rounded up a bunch of Japanese designer clothing and asked rural workers to dress in the garments on the spot. I feel like they captured a unique perspective about designer clothing in general and the people who wear them. Sonomama means ‘(adv.) just like that; just as you are; unchanged; as before; in a natural state; don’t move an inch,’ which I find refreshing these days in fashion.”
A stovetop frittata with gravlax and lots of dill: “I recently discovered how easy it was to make gravlax, plus it keeps for a while and can be used in so many ways!”
Helvey’s recipe? “Take two salmon fillets, sprinkle a good dose of salt and sugar with fresh torn dill, sandwich skin-side together, and wrap fillets in plastic wrap. Place in a dish and put a weight of some sort on top (I used a big bag of almonds), leave for three days in the fridge (flipping the pack every day), and you’re done – just rinse the fillet – pat dry and slice the most incredible tasting lox you’ve ever eaten!”
Draped over a laundry rack, a visual essay by Rhiannon Gilmore of Intelligent Clashing featuring photographs by Mary Manning.
A repurposed tabletop-turned-book ledge, with a Waka Waka blue zigzag, holding favorite publications including F De C Reader, Synonym Journal and Pacific Standard.
Mobile by Renilde Depeuter of at-swim-two-birds from a favorite Australian store, Mr. Kitly.
Helvey swears by Dr. Hauschka facial toner and recently became obsessed with NUXE Huile Prodigiese, a French dry oil available from Nationale: “My purse has the usual suspects: wallet, makeup bag, keys, and sometimes my lunch.”
The last book Helvey bought was Acorn by Yoko Ono, which began as a series of digital experiments and blog posts in 1996. “I’m fascinated by the simplicity and profoundness of her thoughts,” Helvey says.
A Coyuchi flannel throw picked up in Point Reyes: “They have an awesome store that has major sales, kind of similar to the Heath warehouse in Sausalito where you can pick up seconds at a discounted price.”
The spines of Helvey’s Apartamento magazines: “It’s not overstyled; they’re actually shooting real people’s homes and spaces. That’s what’s so amazing, that there are these really beautiful things, but they’re all used, like they have some type of clutter.”
A piece from Helvey’s collection of Issey Miyake Pleats Please. Helvey initially studied apparel as a student and was drawn to felting because of the possibility of making seamless garments: “They’re the oldest textiles in human history, and you don’t need much to make it.”
More Issey Miyake, the Bao Bao bag: “I have a small wardrobe with some key pieces that I wear all the time. I don’t have the tendency to become too attached to my clothes, so I often do closet clean-outs.”
Hair clip by Sylvain le Hen from Anaise,”the best hair clips for fine hair,” says Helvey, who also wears button-up shirts “almost every day.”
The cobalt blue Celine heels “are my least worn shoes,” Helvey says laughing, “which made them better to photograph I suppose. I am very rough with shoes and am on my feet a lot, so having an easy flat boot that can stand the weather is essential.”
A magnolia in Helvey’s yard.
Inez & Vinoodh’s ‘Pretty Much Everything’ 1985 – 2010: 25 Photographs + 25 posters with M/M (Paris), a gift from Helvey’s friend and coworker Strath Shepard.
In preparation for the upcoming #IRL exhibition, Helvey has been renting space in photographer Robin Stein’s photo studio, nestled behind the restaurant The Whale Wins in the Wallingford neighborhood of Seattle. The two collaborated on Totokaelo’s recent spring campaign. “Robin and I are in the process of photographing all the work to be an instructional series called ‘Matter of Fact,’ documenting the construction of beautiful, functional objects seen online in real life, hence #IRL.”
Plaster casts of the negative space inside discarded vessels from thrift stores, “transforming something gaudy and overdone into something simple,” which we first admired as part of the Iko Iko pop-up for Arts ReSTORE.
Arranging Things: Rhetoric of Object Placement, which was inspired by arrangements seen at the San Francisco store Japonesque.
“Wabi-Sabi for Artists and Designers [also by Leonard Koren] best explains my relationship to beauty. I love beautiful things that are practical and functional, and I find Japanese design embodies this concept of beauty through use.”
Experiments and prototypes for #IRL. “It’s kind of crazy that people don’t do make things more often,” Helvey says. “Beautiful design is totally tangible, it’s something you can make.”
A piece of foam on a stool base, a “prototype in comfort,” Helvey says.
A spray-painted thrift store find: “I could spend hours at an Asian market looking at all the different packaging and can also be super fast at walking through a Goodwill store, grab-’n-go.”
A grout on wood piece: “I use whatever tools I have on hand,” Helvey explains. “If I don’t have something in particular, I will use something else. For instance, I didn’t have a grout trowel, so I used my spaetzle dough cutter to apply the grout.”
“One day I was watching Project Runway, and Tim Gunn asked one of the designers if they would wear the garments themselves so naturally I asked the same question about my work. I realized I had been recreating pieces that I had conceived almost ten years ago and thought it wasn’t a reflection of my current aesthetic. My aesthetic has evolved over the years from being exposed to so much inspiring artwork on the internet, so I decided to make things that I would personally want in my home.”
Resin pieces by Vasa Mihich, who pioneered techniques in fusing colored acrylic, and who was Stein’s mother’s painting teacher when she was a teenager in Los Angeles in the 1980s.
More reading material: “Robin just turned me on to this amazing tumblr by Dina Kelberman called I’m Google that uses Google Image search to pull images from the internet. It’s like a collective consciousness of imagery, which I kind of find to be a digital documentation of how the internet is unconsciously affecting people’s work and ideas.”
“I’m an organic, not deliberate, worker. I’m an air sign, a quick thinker, fast mover; things change,” Helvey says. “I think having an eye is probably inherent, but it’s something that constantly evolves as the world around you does.”
Today on the site, we're giving you a peek inside Seattle creative Ashley Helvey's home and studio, but we also wanted to show you the results of the work that was being created there during our visit. Last week, at Seattle's Love City Love art space, Helvey debuted an exhibition with possibly the best name — and best concept — we've heard to date: "#IRL (internet shorthand for 'In Real Life ') is Helvey's exploration and reflection on being an artist in the age of Tumblr, Instagram and the reblog," the show text reads. "With the vast array of technological opportunities we have to broadcast our identity and redistribute images of art and design, at what point do we create our own content? #IRL presents work created by Helvey, that references images and works from the internet, many of which have been re-posted on her blog, HunterGathererer. These works, brought together under Helvey's distinct aesthetic and material sensibility, reject the lament that there is really nothing new. Instead, this exhibition celebrates the impact of technology and social media and its wealth of imagery as direct inspiration for creating real and tangible art objects.'"
Every creative scene has an unseen hand, the type of person who seems to know everyone, touch everything, and generally act as the glue holding it all together, all while falling just below the radar of the average outside observer. In the Seattle design world, Charlie Schuck fits that profile to a tee. A photographer and the proprietor of the former brick and mortar storefront Object — which he filled with commissions by designers from around the Pacific Northwest — he not only produces stunning product shots for locals like Totokaelo, Iacoli & McAllister, Ladies & Gentlemen Studio, and Filson, he also curates exhibitions, like the recent pop-up Future This Now and an upcoming museum survey of regional talents. He's so committed to his role, in fact, that when we approached him about doing a story on his own work, he came back with the idea to do a photo essay on everyone else's: "A still life series of personal items that speak to the influences of Seattle creatives," he says. "Objects from those who produce objects."
The cult Seattle boutique Totokaelo already carries clothing and objects so beautiful that each new season wreaks havoc on the wallets of aesthetes around the country. The only way the store could possibly improve on that game? By shooting those new collections in scenarios designed to make said aesthetes even crazier. To promote its spring Art—Object catalog, the store's creative director Ashley Helvey masterminded two such campaigns: a photo shoot shot by Robin Stein and styled by Margaret Macmillan Jones in the technicolor plaza of Seattle's King County Correctional Center (designed in the '80s by Martha Schwartz and Benson Shaw), and a video, also in collaboration with Stein, that features Cameron Mesirow of Glasser along with music from her latest album, Interiors.